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The Power of Figure Eight: An Essential Knot for Climbing

Writer's picture: Kirk CarlsonKirk Carlson

Title: The Power of Figure Eight: An Essential Knot for Climbing


As a climber, understanding and mastering a variety of knots is a vital part of your survival toolkit. Figure eight and its variations have earned a top spot among the many knots out there. This is due to their unique blend of strength, utility, and reliability - an essential combination for any climber braving the vertical wilderness.


The figure eight knot is the keystone of this group, revered for its simplicity and effectiveness. With this knot, climbers can prevent potentially fatal scenarios, such as rappelling off the end of a rope. The figure eight knot is the foundation for learning other life-saving knots and techniques. Its elegance lies in its simplicity: easy to tie, untie, and check visually for correctness.


Another crucial variant is the Figure eight follow-through knot. Used to secure yourself, or any gear, to the end of a rope, this knot proves invaluable when affixing the string to a closed loop such as a climbing harness or a chain link. The figure eight follow-through knot boasts impressive strength, resisting slippage and self-tightening under tension without cinching down on the load. It's often accompanied by a stopper knot for added security, rendering it a 'bomber' knot.


The third variant that deserves mention is figure eight on a bight. Despite any confusion, a 'bight' in this context refers to a loop or bend in a rope, not a misspelling of 'bite.' This knot, also known as a mid-rope loop, allows climbers to create a secure circle in the middle of the rope, which helps secure gear, create handholds or footholds, and many other creative applications.


Figure eight on a bight retains 85% of the rope's original strength. Tying it is similar to the standard figure eight knot, and it has benefits similar to the figure eight follow-through. However, it's applied in different situations, particularly when you need a loop but don't need to secure it to a closed loop like a harness or chain link.


In conclusion, figure eight and its variations form a vital triad in the climber's knot arsenal. These knots are indispensable for their ease of use and functionality and for the safety and assurance they provide in unpredictable and challenging climbing situations. As with any climbing skill, remember that practice is paramount. Regularly practice tying and checking these knots until they become second nature - it could save your life.

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